Khao San Road - the mecca of "The Lonely Planet Cult"

I am in Bangkok. The internet is fast, the keyboard has all keys and its 35C. I have checked to the small hotel off the Kaho San road. Got a two hour power nap (the last 5 days travelling was quite intense). Will go now to get some food and check the mecca of "The Lonely Planet cult" (I haven't seen so many backpackers yet) :)

Sapa Highlands

I left for Sapa right after coming back from Halong Bay. I took the night train to Lao Cai and later caught a bus up to the 1500 m where Sapa is located. We have lef the main luggage in the hotel and went for the trek. The first day we have hiked about 9 km, crossed the Black Hmong village and eventually ended in the Zae village where we stayed in the homestay. The views were amazing with the 3100 m Fansipan range in the background.

There was four of us: Mick and Josh from Australia, me and our guide with minimal knowledge of English - Tot. In the Zae village we had a great dinner generously soaked with the rice wine and later ended up in the wedding party (we kind of invited ourselves...) We had amazing time but drunk too much rice wine and ate dog (not knowing that it was one) !!!

Next day we hiked 6km to Red Zhao village and eventually took jeeps back to Sapa. The weather was awesome, lots of sun and 22 - 27 C. At 21:15 we took the night train back to Hanoi, arrived at 5 pm, had a bowl of Pho at 5:30 and caught the taxi to the airport. Off to Bangkok

Halong Bay

I am back from a two day Halong Bay trip. There were twelve of us on the boat. The trip was great. Dis some kayaking and of course to complete the experience swam there as well. Met tree guys/girls from Ottawa and a cool couple from New Zealand. They (Canadians) will visit Van on April 13 (on their way back) and I am going to take them to Blarney Stone :). I have ran into many people I have met earlier on the trip in Vietnam...

Off to Sapa in two hours by a night train...

Hanoi

this keyboard has no left shift ... the flight from hue was smooth although they tried to rip me off on the aiport transfer fee. it was supposed to be included in the plane ticket so i just walked off saying thank you :) the guy was half of my size so i dont think he would have a chance ....

i am stying close to the "smith's street" in a dive called thu giang guesthouse. probably the simpliest place i have been so far, but has hot water :) it only 6$ a night. i have been strolling around the old quarter all day, bought few things, booked my halong bay and sapa tours and a plane ticket to bangkok. had problems finding a cd burning place but met a a cool couple from arizona (tim and cindie - www.downtheroad.org who are bicycling around the world) and tim helped me burning the cd with his laptop. they have written a book about their travel and sell it online. the sales from the book allows them to travel.

going to get some food and will hit the bed early tonite. weather is so so, no rain fortunately.

Bike tour in Hue

Just got back from the day long bike tour in Hue. It was rainy but still great. I have originally booked the $2 perfume river tour but after reading all the warnings about this lame trip in the "Cafe on the wheels" decided to do the $6 motorbike tour. It was well worth it. We have visited the pagodas, tombs, went to the country side seen the japanese bridge, the bunker hill, the citadel, drove through villages and remote areas and just had a great fun. There was about 8 bikes together. It was organized by Thu's cafe a Lonely Planet recomended cafe in the little alley right by the hotel. It is a hangout place for many backpackers. The cafe has many writings on the walls. I made my own inscription today... Leaving in half an hour on the plane to Hanoi.

Rainy season started and I am in Hue

Just arrived in a full on rain. Looks like rainy season started for good. I am staying in Hue's lil backpackers area. I have joined two Swedish dudes from Gotland (I am having a dinner with them later tonite). My knowledge if Swedish comes handy.

One more day in Hoi an

There was a slight change of plans. I have decided to stay one more day in Hoi an. My stomach was still not at 100% and I was not looking forward to the buss trip. Besides with the "tailor craze" I really did not have enough time to enjoy this magical place. Also there is this 7 days festival here now and there is tons of events in the evenings. So yesterday I hanged out on the beach for few hours and later in the evening strolled the old town again and took tons of pictures. I have met a cool gut from Holland (Erik - I have ran into him on few occasions during my stay here) so we had a dinner together in the restaurant by the river. He also made me aware that it is probably better to send things from here since there is 25kg limit on Vitnamese and Thai airlines. Trying to figure out what are my best options for shipping. Leaving this place in 4 hours.

Also this morning I ran into Yannic who has just arrived from Nha trang. I have helped him to find the cheap hotel here.

I have decided to ship the stuff I bought in Hoi an. Will take 3 months but at least I will not have to carry it and perhaps pay excessive luggage charges at the airports.

Last day in Hoi an

Today is the last day in Hoi an. Will be leaving on a bus to Hue around 12:30 tomorrow. I hope I will feel bit better since I have a bit of a stomach problem. Nothing major just feel a bit of a nausea. I suspect it was the fruit shake I had this morning. Not sure. Tonite I just had tea and congee and peptobismol :)

ciao

The tailors of Hoi an !

A bit late with my update. I took the sleeper train from Nha Trang to Danang and then a taxi toI a nice little town called Hoi an. It is a UNESCO world heritage sight with spectacular old town and ... amazing tailor shops !!! On the train I have met a Swedish couple (Nicklas and Sandra [who is half Polish and speaks Polish !]) and we are traveling together now.

Yesterday I have spent all day in the tailor and shoe shops. Spent probably around US $250 but got a whole bunch of custom made shoes and clothes (including three piece suit !)

I will be picking up all this stuff today and visiting around a bit more. I am planning to take a bus to Hue tomorrow morning.

ciao

A day on the boat

Last day in Nha Trang. Went on a boat trip between Islands. Very good snorkling. Met Vova from Russia and a cool dude from Panama. Taking the night train to Hoi an.

It's pouring in Nha Trang

Back to the blog :) The power is back and so is Internet. The last morning in Mui Ne was busy. I have went to the center of the fishing village (right when the fishermen were bringing in their catch) . Later visited my driver's family fishing boat (we took the funky round basket like dinghy to get there), his family house (where I had the most amazing fresh squid spring rolls for breakfast with his family) and the local catholic church (his family was catholic). We have also checked few interesting places around the village.

At 1:30 pm I have boarded the buss to Nha Trang. On the bus there were the three Swedes I remembered from Phnom Phen and the German rastafarian Ingo (who offered us some vellium to ease the trip). He took two pills and that knocked him down for the half of the trip. I did not have any for the road was amazing and there was lots to see. Sand dunes, wild beaches, desert scenery. It reminded me a bit of Baja around Rosarito. There were only probably 10 people in the whole bus. We have arrived in Nha Trang around 6 pm. Checked in to a nice cheap hotel right across the street from the beach. I am staying together with Ingo. The evening Ingo, Linus, Kristian and me have spent in an awesome seafood place and later in a bar called Sailing Club. It was good fun.

The tropical storm from Philippines brought the heavy winds and serious rain here today. It's been pouring all day long. I have cancelled my boat trip and decided to visit the local sites. Visited the mud/mineral water spa and the local Buddhist temple. Came across the large group of pilgrims from Saigon on a temple tour. They all wanted pictures with me since I kind looked like their head monk (I have forgotten to add that I have got a haircut this morning, which supposed to be a trim but ended up being super short cut). I got few good pictures to share from the temple visit.

All day on a moot in pouring rain left me completely wet. It was a real adventure. I am back close to my hotel now. It's still raining and I am not sure for how long. The power keeps breaking in the city and I have lost my typing twice already... I am supposed to meet the guys for supper soon.

Kitesurfed Out !

Last night was pretty uneventful. Spent almost the whole evening with buch of Vietnamese kidds playing what they call Kwa Kau, wich is a cross between hacky sack and badmington. They could not say a single word in English so it took me about 5 minutes to get the name of this sport :). (They want to play again today).

And today..... YES !!! I have spent almost all day on the water. I have rented the gear from Trang at Saigom Mui Ne. These guys are very helpful. It's nice to kite when you don't need to set up your equipment. The wind in the morning was nice and consistent. I went out on a 12. Got two really nice and long sessions in the morning. Had to get used to the waves in the beginning. After the lunch the wind got stronger and gusty. I went out on a 10 and fairly small board. Even though, I felt overpowerded so I switched to an 8 with the same 125 cm board. It was just perfect for some time but later I had to work the kite a bit. The swell was huge. I felt like in the middle of the sea. Probably 2 m waves on the open water and about 1.2 m by the shore. Towards the end I got "swallowed" by one of the shore waves and called it a day. Unfortunately I have also lost my ring, dont even know when. It probably means that I will come back to this place again... It's an amazing kiting spot and in 3-4 years It will be the number one place in Asia !

All my body was prety sore. Thanks God the massage lady was there on the beach. She does the hot massage with some tiger balm oils. She is very old yet somehow has strength in her hands. Today was my second time I had massage and she told me the story of her life. She has married a GI when she was 19. He was a captain in the Green Berets. She had two kids with him who now live in the US. The Captain was killed in action during the war. She has received the compenstation from the US government but the money was confiscated by the VC government.

I have met few other interestig people. Two beach bums from England. One works for Trang setting up kites and gets to ride for free. Another was Phil - a british DJ living half a year in Korfu Island in Grece and another half here. I will be meeting these guys later for dinner.
Also, I have met tons of russian kiters here!!! It was really nice to refresh some of the russian language. Off for dinner and Nha Trang tomorrow. Ciao

Mui Ne

7:30 bus from Saigon took me to Mui Ne's white beaches. Took a moto to the sand dunes, fishing village and "The Canyon". This place is kind of dead but very tranquile and relaxing. Also I have lost Ingrid and Yannic who went to the different destinations.

Saigon - The City of Organized Chaos

One full day in Saigon. Full day on a cyclo in downtown. Went to Vietnam War Museum, pagodas, did some shopping and taking off tomorrow morning to Mui Ne :).

Mekong Delta

11 hours on Mekong from Can Tho to My Tho. 5:30 wakup call. 6 am on the boat with a driver and his son. First visited the famous My Tho floating markets (biggest in SE asia) and then hit the road (or water) through the network of channels to My Tho. Small channels, big channels, towns, villages, slums, rice fields, mangrove forests, bannana grovess, open water with 1 m swells (and being completely wet), bridges and lot of smiling faces and waving.

Finally we got there after 11h and jumped again to a small mini bus to Saigon. This time we DID not allow anybody to take advantage on the bus fare. The road to Saigon was hectic. With many close calls and suicidal bypassing. I have never seen anything like that and I drove in Poland, Italy, Mexico and Costa Rica...

I am in Saigon now in the heart of the "backpaker's district". I am quite impressed with this city actually. Looks very modern and reminds me a bit of Japan. Tons of motos and bikes...Time to go to bed. Tiiiiirrreeeeddddd...

Good Moooooooooorning Vietnam...

Or rather good afternoon. We have crossed the border in Tinh Bien about 2pm. The smallest border corssing I have ever seen...

The last day in Sihanoukville was rather uneventful besides the usual beach stuff and a trip to the town. We have also met the "Legionaire" again (3rd time) with his "thai voman companion" (French Foreign Legion Vet - Harry from Koblenz). Oh yeah there was a party until 4 am right below us on the beach so it was VERY hard to fall a sleep with all the noise... We are also loosing Rysio and and Andreas who left to Thailand. So it is Yannic, Ingrid and me.

March 13th was a full day of travelling. Taxi to the Vietnamise border or a dirt road, later 14 km on motos to Cau Doc and super hectic entry to the "smugglers" bus [where we paid double not knowing the prices and entering the bus while it was alredy moving]. Oh ..."smugglers" bus because it was carrying women smuggling illegal Thai cigarettes in a form of a body suits :). The whole bus ride was quite eventful (from seating under baskets and empty gas containers to biting child in seizure/shock and people jumping and entering while running. Finally we made it to Can Tho and made it on a pseudo tuk-tuk to Vinh Guesthouse around 10pm. The next day (today) we were going to go to Saigon. Part of the trip will be done on Mekong delta.

Sihanoukville

This is the second day in Sihanoukville. Place with white beautiful beaches and warm sea. Staying in the Eden Guesthouse right on the beach. Off to Vietnam tomorrow :)

Phnom Phen

The day in Phnom Phen was long and busy. 5 people in the cab. Visited the Toul Sleng School, killing fields, National Museum and the King's Palace. Back in the gust house now. My Vietnamese visa is present in the passport for $35 one day processing fee :). Off to Sihanoukville tomorrow morning by buss.

The long journey to Phnom Phen

After a long 11 hours journey I am in the chaos of Phnom Phen. The trip should take only 5 hours by bus or boat but this one was a bit different.... Anyway, after reachig the cruising speed our boat hit a sandbank or breaking the two propeller blades. We had to slowly come back, load back on a small buss, go back to Siem Reap and take a buss. It took 8 different vehicle rides to get to Phnom Phen. We are here now in Okay Guesthouse. The room is $2 as there is five of us staying there (Rysio - the Polish guy, Ingrid - the girl from Norway, Andreas - a guy from Sweden and Yannick - a guy from Quebec). Wa have already arranged a Taxi for the whole day for tomorrow to see all the major sites here.

Today I have definitelly seen the poorest people I have ever seen in my life. The area of the floating villge is something I never forget.

I am REALLY tired ...

The last day in the temples

Yes, time to leave Angkor. Today was the last day in the temples. Visited the furthest away. Banteay Srey with amazing carvings + few other with Buddhist monasteries right beside. The 37 km drive through country side on a tuk-tuk was something by itself.

Tomorrow at 6:00 am will be heading by boat th Phnom Phen.

My back is still warm from an extraordinary shiatsu massage given by the "Seeing Hands" - blind land mine victims.

More temples today

Today we have seen overgrown by massive trees Ta Prohm mysterious Preah Khan and few others. Everything is quite breathtaking although I am starting to be a bit "templed out". There are few more to see tomorrow and off to Phnom Pen.

I gave away some Canadian flag pinns to some kids today (5 of them). The ones I did not buy anything from gave me the pinns back with angry faces :(.... but having said this I bought the bracelets from two of them (the ones that were the most shy in the back). So I have tons of these. If you want one let me know (this applies to anybody reading this).

I just got got back from a nice dinner with a couple of Polish guys/gals. One of the guys (Rysiu) will be joining me for the journey to Phnom Pen and Sihanukville.

The Temples

... were amazing. I saw the Angor Wat and Angor Thom today. Planning to wake up 5:30 tomorrow to see the 6:30 sunset and the next temples. Have to run now. I have meet a Polish couple who is teaching diving in Thailand. We are supposesd to meed for a beer. BTW Food is amazing tooooo

Siem Reap, Cambodia

Vancouver->Seattle->Tai Pei->Hong Kong->Bangkok->Siem Reap.... 5 countries in 35 hours. I am sound and save in the heart of The ancient Angkor empire... staying in the Two Dragons Guesthouse....

The birth of da BLOG

1:08 am in 14 hours I will be boarding the buss that will take me to SEATAC and from there I will fly to SE Asia... still not packed